Domaine Hubert Lamy Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Graviere Rogue 2023

Like the white from this unique vineyard, these grapes come from a tiny 0.28-hectare parcel of 50-plus-year-old vines in the clos itself (see the note on the white for more details on this terroir). Like the white, it is a brilliant example of the commune with a finesse and purity (and sheer deliciousness) that is unmatched in our drinking experience. The planting density is now 20,000 vines per hectare. The vines are not trimmed but wrapped down (tressage) and yield tiny berries and bunches. Vinified with 80% whole bunches—bringing oodles of perfume and fine structure—the 2023 is another wonderful example. It’s super classy, with seductive flesh and a racy, vibrant close. It’s a wine that would undoubtedly sell for considerably more if it were located in the Côte de Nuits.

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